Tasting History with Max Miller
Published Feb 20, 2024Eugénie Brazier, the chef behind today’s recipe, was a culinary force to be reckoned with. She was described as “a formidable woman with a voice like a foghorn, rough language, and strong forearms”. Both of her restaurants won Michelin stars in the early 20th century, making her the first person to have six. No one else would earn six Michelin stars for 64 years.
By modern Michelin standards, this dish is pretty plain, but it’s still really good. The chicken is cooked simply in butter, and the cream sauce is absolutely fantastic. I was afraid the alcohol would overpower it, but it doesn’t. The sauce takes on a kind of floral woodiness instead of each individual alcohol’s flavor, and it’s so good.
Ingredients:
3 1/2 lb (1 1/2 kg) chicken, quartered
Salt and pepper
4 tablespoons (56 g) butter
2 egg yolks
2 cups (475 ml) heavy cream
1 1/2 ounces (45 ml) port
1 1/2 ounces (45 ml) cognac
1 1/2 ounces (45 ml) whiskey
1 1/2 ounces (45 ml) kirschInstructions:
- Preheat the oven to 400°F (205°C).
- Sprinkle the chicken quarters with plenty of salt and pepper and rub it into the skin.
- Heat the butter in a deep oven-safe pan, and once it’s sizzling, place the chicken pieces in it. Cook for a few minutes until they’re a light golden brown, then flip and brown on the other side.
- Put the pan in the oven and cook for about 40 minutes, or until the chicken is done.
- Transfer the chicken to a plate and cover it.
- Return the pan with all the drippings to the stove. Deglaze it with the port, cognac, whiskey, and kirsch. Bring it to a simmer over medium heat and cook it until it’s reduced by about half, about 5 to 10 minutes.
- Whisk the egg yolks into the heavy cream to combine. Add this mixture to the pan and whisk vigorously while it cooks for about 5 to 10 more minutes, or until it has thickened up. Whisk constantly, or the sauce will get lumpy. Taste, and add salt and pepper to your liking. When it has thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon, pour it through a strainer. A conical strainer will be best for this if you have one.
- Pour the sauce over the chicken, and serve it forth.
May 28, 2024
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