Ever wondered how to saw straight? Paul shows in detail how to cut an accurate and straight saw cut. This provides some skills you will need to challenge yourselves to bigger and better projects. Using a handsaw may prove harder than you think but with these tips and tricks, you will be able to saw straight and accurately.
More and more woodworkers now refer to the term Paul coined as knifewall years ago. When Paul first introduced it to his students in the late 1980s the term did not exist. Paul set out to create a single word that not only referred to marking the wood surface, but one that described severing the surface fibres and the creation of a physical knife-cut wall. Knifewall as a term became something woodworkers would saw, plane and chisel their wood to.
In this video Paul critiques a dovetail sent in by Jenny, one of our beginners from Common Woodworking. Not everyone will run into the same problems, however if we can get a sample of the issues people are facing with their first experiences of joinery then we will be able to advise you on how to avoid these problems in the future.
If you are new to joinery and would like feedback from Paul on your dovetails, you can send them in using the link below: https://commonwoodworking.com/send-us…
If you are yet to make your first dovetail joint, visit our beginner friendly step-by-step guide on Common Woodworking: https://commonwoodworking.com/courses…
Comments Off on Beginners Dovetail Feedback | Paul Sellers
Do you need a low bench height to bear down on your work when planing? Or should a sharp plane pull itself to task? See what Paul Sellers thinks.
We posted this (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8FLl…) video the day before this one but we had a comment saying that the same would not be possible with the board level. Hopefully this will show that that is not the case.
To find out more about Paul Sellers and the projects he is involved with go to http://paulsellers.com
Comments Off on Bench heights and planing technique | Paul Sellers
The router plane remains one of the most essential tools for hand tool woodworkers. It is used to refine cuts which are either made by chisels, saws or machines, Paul often even uses a router plane as an improvised marking gauge. In this Q&A Paul answers some of your questions regarding this remarkable tool.
Questions:
0:59 What wood do you recommend for making an extension plate for the base of the router plane? How thick should it be?
2:55 Recently the floor of some elements I have chopped have been deeper than my Stanley router reaches. Is there a way to extend the depth reach?
4:14 Having just bought my first router plane I was wondering what basic maintenance should I do to restore it to a good working tool?
5:17 What is the best way to set the height to make sure you don’t plane too deeply?
7:11 Do you recommend attaching a wooden support screwed to the base of the plane?
7:54 My Veritas router plane changes depth during the cut (the shank of the iron slips in the collar). Is there a trick that will prevent this slippage and help ensure an equal depth across the entire surface?
10:11 How does one prevent tear out when routing?
12:11 One thing I’ve noticed by watching your videos is that you only use the router plane to put the finishing touches on tenon cheeks, dados and the like. Was the router plane designed for more than this or is this where the router shines?
15:04 Grain issues? Cutting out a channel/tenon, I often ‘dig in’ (no, not taking big cuts), likely due to grain? You’ve mentioned ‘feeling’ for grain with No4 plane, how do you address this with the router plane?
18:05 The main issue I have when using a router is that the shavings end up between the sole of the plane and my workpiece. These shavings scar the wood of my workpiece. How to prevent this? Or is this to do with the router plane itself?
21:40 Is the router plane effective for making a groove with the width of the iron or a rebate, as you do with the plough plane?
23:55 Is it important to get a router plane with the micro adjustment height wheel for that extra precision, or will a model without the adjustment wheel do the job just fine?
26:02 Are there specific times when you would reach for a router plane over a plough plane (and vice versa) when either could seemingly be used?
27:49 Diamond point vs square blade
28:46 How to prepare the wood for the sole?
The featured Paul Sellers book is available to order from anywhere in the world. Click the link to find out more: https://paulsellers.com/paul-sellers-…
One of our most highly demanded videos is how to sharpen a router plane. Whether you have a new or second hand router plane, Paul Sellers’ sharpening method ensures you get the best performance from your router plane.
The completion of any project should always be exciting but when it’s your workbench there is something really special and unique about it. In this episode Paul uses methods for installing and fitting the bench vise which he has developed to guarantee a rock solid fit. The vise is, of course, your third hand. You do not want one ounce of movement in it. The jaw liners too must match the vise and the workbench for solidity. It’s all lifetime stuff for living woodworkers with style.
The spokeshave is a far more important tool than we might understand so we’d like to make it more understandable for you. Paul considers the spokeshave to be one of the most undervalued and underestimated tools and one he cannot imagine his own woodworking life without. We’ve had many questions over the years about spokeshaves and thought it would be a good idea to follow on from the coping saw Q&A with a whole Q&A dedicated to this amazingly versatile hand tool.
Questions:
0:37 Which is the most versatile spokeshave? Which one will accomplish more tasks than the others, and which ones are your favourites?
1:36 When would I use a curved bottom spokeshave as opposed to a flat bottom?
5:13 What would be a good beginners spokeshave?
6:15 If you were going to own two spokeshaves, what would they be?
7:14 I have a Millers Falls No. 1 cigar spokeshave and find it almost impossible to get a shaving from. Do you have input on adjusting and also sharpening the blade?
7:44 Is your blade sharpened straight across, or does it have a slight crown side to side, like some smoothing planes?
8:33 I have my spokeshave bevels at 30 degrees, would 25 degrees be better?
10:10 [How do you] sharpen wooden spokeshaves? The blades seem so different from the cast handle spokeshaves which have blades like small planes.
11:42 When do you push vs. pull the tool?
13:20 How do you prevent chatter that is a result of the small surface area on the base of the spokeshave?
15:22 Are there any issues with having the spokeshave set for a lighter shave on end and a heavier shave on the other end?
16:36 How do I get an extremely fine cut when shaping curves
17:46 Is there a modification or adjustment to keep chips getting jammed under the blade.
20:11 How do I keep the spokeshave sole parallel to the flat surface or at the correct angle to the curved surface to get consistent shavings? It looks like I have to apply some force to tilt it a bit forward but my hands don’t feel when it is in the correct position.
22:11 I noticed you perform straight planing with the spokeshave over wood wider than the blade itself, and get super thin shavings. Can you explain how you set the spokeshave for this?
23:56 I recently bought a wooden spokeshave and often find the blade works itself loose after a few passes, i close the mouth of the plane as much as possible but still find after a few passes it opens up and needs adjusting again.
25:40 Why are there two blade adjustment screws?
26:24 Are new cheap generic spokeshaves restorable? If not, what makes them unusable? I regret getting one of these, but it was also crazy cheap, so this information would help me understand what to look for in good ones.
27:35 I have a couple of wooden spokeshaves that I have trouble getting to work. The soles of these spokeshaves are quite worn out, so the mouth is very wide. I can’t seem to get thin shavings. I haven’t found any that don’t have this so can’t figure out if this is down to my technique or the tool. My question is: how can you tell when the sole of a wooden spokeshave needs fixing and how do you set the blade properly to get thin shavings?
30:31 Is the blade inserted bevel up or down?
32:03 The Stanley spokeshave I purchased online is a bit “rough” to say the least. Does one need to “prepare” it like with a handplane (flattening the sole and such)?
For exercises that will work on your control of the flat-bottomed spokeshave and establish good patterns for continuously reading the grain visit: https://commonwoodworking.com/spokesh…
Paul is now on the last few steps of completing the construction of the bench itself. He starts this episode by cutting and fitting the wellboard. Paul continues to cut two pieces of wood on the bandsaw, which are then glued in place on top of the wellboard. Once this is all finished, Paul moves on to retracting the screws from both apron pieces and replacing them with bolts. He then moves on to the finishing stages of planning the benchtop and making all things smooth. Paul then ends this episode by applying two coats of water-based finish.
Paul kicks off this episode by attaching the apron to the leg frames. He then continues to complete the next step by gluing the bench top to the apron. Once this is done Paul works on fixing the bench top to the bearers by screwing it into place. Paul then finishes this episode off by fixing the supporting rails for the wellboard into place.
This Bandsaw tool tray is a great training project for the Bandsaw. The magnetic design makes it a perfect solution for keeping wrenches like spanners and Allen keys organised and close at hand. They are fast to make, super strong and everything shrinks appropriately in the right direction.
Please note: Before you begin, work safely. Make certain the guards are in place and adjusted to the correct protective height or distance and then fully locked off and locked down. Slipping fences, stops and guards are not always obvious to you when your focus and awareness is on the blade and cutting.
The leg frame joinery is a very precise fit and things can go wrong if you are not experienced with how to deal with what we call glue freeze. One of Paul’s leg frames starts to stick but Paul explains throughout the glue up exactly how he deals with stubborn assemblies for a successful outcome. Paul deals with accurate alignment and cutting of the inner apron pieces including the wedges. His unique wedging method guarantees perfect alignment of the leg frames to the aprons while at the same time allowing the leg frames to be detached for moving, etc.
Paul demonstrates his no-frills, practical solution to the perennial problem of achieving a perfect square edge on a narrow board, using a plane and a bit of sensitivity.
